Meringue Cookies

Whenever I ask my friend Carol if she's been reading the blog she gives one of two answers, neither of which is a yes or a no. The first is, "send me the link again, I keep forgetting how to find it," and the second is, "when are you going to make meringues?" If Carol isn't reading the blog, then how does she know I haven't made meringues yet? It's a mystery I have yet to solve. But I'm working on it.

I asked Carol why she likes Meringues so much and she waxed poetically about the thin, crisp outer layer surrounding the soft, sweet inside. She went on about them for so long, she reminded me of Proust pontificating about Madelines.

So, this past weekend, I decided to give in and try my hand at Meringues. Mother nature, however, had a different idea. Sunday turned out to be hot and very humid. My heart sank as I looked at the first words of the recipe which warned to not make these on a humid day. So, I didn't even try. Besides, I needed to get outside and feel the fresh summer air that magically appeared after a rather cool, wet workweek.

Here's the recipe I would have made, had the humidity levels been anywhere near normal for this time of year.

And I still don't know if Carol is reading my blog.

Meringue Cookies

4 large egg whites, room temp.
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup sugar
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower middle positions and heat oven to 200 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer at medium-low speed until they are opaque and frothy, about 30 seconds. Add the cream of tartar and increase speed to medium-high, and, watching carefully, beat the egg whites until they are white, thick, voluminous, and the consistency of shaving cream, about 90 seconds. Slowly sprinkle in half the sugar and continue to beat until incorporated, about 60 seconds. Add the vanilla. Reduce the speed to the lowest setting, sprinkle in the remaining sugar and mix until just incorporated.

Using two soup spoons, place dollops of meringue, 2 tablespoons each (about the size of a walnut) 1 inch apart, fitting 3 rows of 5 cookies on each sheet. Bake for 1 1/2 hours or until cookies have smooth, firm, dry exteriors. Turn off the oven and allow cookies to cool for several hours. Once cool, store the cookies in an airtight container. Cookies keep for up to two weeks.

Variation: Almond Meringues

Finely grind 1 cup toasted almonds and 1/2 cup of the sugar in a food processor, about ten, one second pulses. Set aside. Add the first half of the sugar only to the whites as directed. Sprinkle the almond mixture over the whites and mix on low speed. Shape and bake according to the instructions above.

This recipe is from Baking Illustrated, by Cook's Illustrated. It's one of my favorite baking books ever.

Flash forward one week...

The weather is changeable this time of year so I was able to make meringues after all. Saturday was windy and cool, with much lower humidity levels. Not two minutes after the baking time of 1 1/2 hours, the power went out due to the incredibly high winds. Mother nature was at it again but thankfully she missed her opportunity to mess with my cookies. Whew.

My almond meringues turned out flat-ish, but are delicious nonetheless. I'm not exactly sure what I did wrong, maybe I didn't whip my egg whites enough, or perhaps I didn't work quickly enough when spooning them onto the baking sheet. I will definitely be making these again soon and this time will strive to make picture perfect meringue cookies.

Matzo Brittle

I'm crazy for matzo. Since Passover started yesterday it's the perfect time to make Matzo Brittle! In fact, it's so good that I plan on making another batch to bring with me on Easter Sunday. It's easy to make and incredibly delicious.

The recipe calls for fleur de sel, a hand-harvested sea salt that is moist, yet still has a nice crunch. I found it at Whole Foods and was able to buy a small amount. It's a good thing because it was priced at $19.99 per pound. Worth searching for, fleur de sel gives the brittle a distinct flavor unlike regular table salt.



Matzo Brittle

4 sheets of unsalted matzo (1/2 box)
2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into large pieces
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons fleur de sel
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips (I used a whole bag)
1 cup toasted, sliced almonds or toasted pecans coarsely chopped

Heat oven to 350 degrees and arrange rack to middle position.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with two overlapping pieces of aluminum foil and wrap edges over the sides. Arrange matzo in a single layer, breaking pieces as needed to fill empty spaces. Set aside.

Place butter, brown sugar, and 3/4 teaspoon fleur de sel in a small saucepan over medium heat and stir with a rubber spatula until the mixture comes to a boil, about 5 minutes. Continue to boil for 3 minutes more. Remove from heat, add vanilla. Pour slowly as the hot caramel may bubble up. Stir to combine.

Pour caramel over matzo and spread it evenly using a rubber spatula. Place baking sheet in the oven and bake matzo until small bubbles cover the surface and caramel is fragrant, about 10 minutes. Do not let caramel burn. Check after 8 minutes to be sure it doesn't!

Remove from oven, sprinkle with chocolate chips and set aside until chips are softened, about 5 minutes.

Spread chocolate evenly over the caramel using a rubber spatula. Sprinkle with nuts and remaining 3/4 teaspoon fleur de sel. (I used a bit more, and spread it evenly across the entire sheet by rubbing it gently between my palms).

Refrigerate the brittle until cool, about 15 minutes. Break into pieces and serve.

Note: I had trouble with the brittle sticking to the foil because the caramel seeped under the matzo. I popped the pan in the freezer for 1/2 hour and then I was able to easily peel off the foil from the back of the frozen brittle. I put the brittle on a large cutting board and cut the sheet into squares using a chef's knife.

Warning: This stuff is addictive. It's sweet, salty, and crunchy in every single bite.

Magnificent Madeleines

The madeleine is a traditional cake from the Lorraine region in northeastern France. Madeleines are small sponge cakes with a distinctive shell-like shape acquired from being baked in pans with shell-shaped depressions. In order to make madeleines, you must have a molded pan which are found in any kitchen store for about $20 - $30. Pans can be found with a nonstick coating and I heartily recommend finding one. If using a nonstick pan, you can omit buttering and flouring the pan. Instead simply give it a light coating with a nonstick spray like Pam.

Traditional madeleine recipes include very finely ground nuts, usually almonds. A variation uses lemon zest and extract for a wonderful lemon flavor. This recipe is adapted from Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook.

Other than the special pan, and some patience while the batter rests, these cookies aren't too difficult to make. These are great for showers, or parties where you want to go upscale and impress your friends.

Rosewater Madeleines (makes approximately 20)

1 stick butter
3/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for pans
scant 1/2 cup almond flour*
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon rosewater
3 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt

*Instead of almond flour, you may add 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons of finely ground almonds to 1/2 cup flour

In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Set aside to cool. In a large bowl, whisk together flours and sugar; set aside.

Add rosewater to cooled butter. Stir to combine. In a large bowl, combine eggs and salt, whisking until frothy. Whish in flour mixture to combine. Fold butter into butter mixture. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 2 hours or overnight.



Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter madeleine pan, dust lightly with flour, tapping lightly on pan to remove excess flour. Fill each mold about halfway and bake, rotating pan(s) during baking until the edges are golden brown, about 12 to 14 minutes. Remove immediately to wire racks to cool. I found that using a rubber spatula and gently pressing on the cakes worked very well.

Madelines are best eaten the day they are made.


Variation: Lemon Madeleines

2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon pure lemon extract

Omit rosewater and add lemon zest and extract to melted butter.

Cookie Press Review

I have to confess that I may not have added the correct amount of flour but these turned out very well despite my possible mistake. I ground up almonds in my food processor, but may have forgotten to add the 1/2 cup flour. I will try again this weekend and this time I'll follow the directions more carefully. My tasters raved about these madeleines. They loved the almond flavor and the hint of rosewater. I think I'll try to add a full teaspoon of rosewater next time and see how that affects the taste.

I encourage you to bake and serve these the same day they are made. Otherwise, they lose a bit of their sponge-like texture and that would be a shame.

Cookie press rating: 3 1/2 cookies (out of five)

Madras Cookies

I've heard of curry in a hurry, but curry in a cookie is news to me. I like curry dishes when ordered at my favorite East Village restaurant, Banjara (on First and Sixth Streets). I figured it's time for me to try curry in a cookie so I headed for my cookie bible, Great Cookies, by cookie maven Carole Walter. This book is a must for the serious cookie baker. I'm suddenly inspired to bake my way through the book blogging all the way. Oh wait, that's been done before. Do you think Nora Ephron has any interest for a slightly sweeter version of Julie and Julia? I thought not.

And now, without further adieu, I bring you the recipe for Madras Cookies.

Madras Cookies

2 t mild curry powder
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup unblanched almonds + additional for the top of each cookie
1 t baking powder
1/2 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1/2 t ground cinnamon
1 c (2 sticks) butter, softened slightly
1 t grated orange zest from one orange
2/3 c sugar
2/3 c lightly packed brown sugar
2 eggs
2 t vanilla extract
1 c chopped sweetened, flaked coconut

Heat curry powder in a small skillet over low heat for 20 - 30 seconds until fragrant. Set aside to cool.

Place the flour, 1 cup almonds, curry powder, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse 10 times, then process for 1 minute until mixture is very finely chopped and cake-like. Set aside.

In the large bowl of an electric mixer, mix the butter and orange zest on medium-low speed until light and creamy. Add the sugar, then brown sugar and mix for about 12 minute. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add vanilla, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Add the dry ingredients in three additions, mixing until just blended after each addition. Turn mixer off and fold in coconut. Chill dough for 20 - 30 minutes, or until firm enough to roll into balls.

Heat oven to 375 degrees and moderately butter cookie sheets. You can probably use parchment paper instead of greasing or buttering the cookie sheets.



Roll the dough to form 1/2 to 3/4 inch balls and place on sheets about 2 inches apart. Gently press a whole almond into the top of each cookie, using the heel of your hand to flatten the cookie slightly. Try pressing a few blanched, slivered almonds on top instead of a whole almond to vary the look.


Bake for 10 - 12 minutes or until the edges are golden brown. If baking 2 pans at once, be sure to rotate the pans from top to bottom, front to back. Let cookies cool on sheets for 2 or 3 minutes before removing cookies to cooling racks.

Cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks or carefully wrapped and frozen.

Cookie Press Review

I have to admit that I expected to dislike these cookies. I was wrong. The cookies are uniquely flavorful without being overpowering. In fact, most of my tasters could not detect the curry until I told them. A few thought I was lying. Many tasted a slight orange and cinnamon flavor. Overall, the cookies were a surprise hit. I even keep a small tin in my desk drawer for a late afternoon snack.

Cookie press rating: 3 1/2 cookies (out of five)

Chocolate Sparkle Cookies

One of my dedicated blog readers suggested, no insisted, that I try Chocolate Sparkle Cookies as another option to treating the symptoms of PMS (see Black Forest Cookie blog entry to understand the reference to PMS). This is the signature cookie of noted pastry chef Thomas Haas. Haas has worked as the Executive Pastry Chef at the Four Seasons in Vancouver, and as Executive Pastry Chef at Daniel, Boulud's famous eatery in Manhattan. Haas has won tons of accolades over the years so I'm thinking this cookies have to be fantastic.

Chocolate Sparkle Cookies

1/2 lb (8 oz.) bittersweet chocolate
3 T butter, room temp.
2 eggs
1 T honey
1/3 c sugar
3/4 c ground almonds
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
1 pinch salt
coarse sugar for garnish

Melt chocolate on top of a double boiler, over simmering water. Make sure water does not come in contact with the chocolate. Even a drop of water will seize the chocolate and you'll have to start over. Cut butter into small pieces and mix into the melted chocolate. Beat eggs with mixer, gradually adding the sugar and honey until light and mixture falls in thick, smooth ribbons from the beater (about 10 minutes). Fold into the chocolate-butter mixture. Add the cocoa powder and salt to the ground almonds and mix. Gently add to the chocolate mixture.

Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the dough into one inch balls. Working quickly, roll the balls in granulated sugar. Place on baking sheet about two inches apart. Bake for about 12 minutes, until the centers are moist, but not wet. Do not overbake. Cookies will be soft in the center. Cool slightly. Dust lightly with coarse sugar.

Cookie Press Review

These cookies did not impress. The texture was very odd. Soft? Yes. Chocolaty? You betcha. Sweet? No doubt. But I really couldn't get past the texture. Perhaps it was the ground up almonds which provided nice flavor but required some extra chewing and who has time for that? Be sure to have a glass of milk ready to wash 'em down. I also overcooked one batch on purpose to see if that made a difference. It didn't seem to matter all that much. Overcooking just dried them out.

My taste testers agreed and weren't begging for second or third sample as they normally do. A single cookie filled my tasters up.

I'd be interested to hear what you think of think of this cookie. For me, Sparkle Cookies were kind of lackluster.

Cookie Press rating: 2 cookies (out of five)

Reminder: Send me your cookie recipes to try! Email them to me at: tleader(@)nyc(dot)rr(dot)com.